Alex Aitken

Aitken says he learnt the basic techniques by following Jacques PepinÁ¢Â€Â™s La Technique. He may have, but he has long outgrown his textbook apprenticeship. He works now with a neatness and precision that many a Roux-trained disciple could admire or even envy.

His signature dish is a layered terrine of poussin, foie gras and Agen prunes, but he uses small poultry in a variety of ways. His current menus include slow-roasted, aged quail with Sauternes, foie gras and truffle and breast of squab with Jura wine and mushrooms. HeÁ¢Â€Â™s an avid fungus fan and has sourced English summer truffles (used in the poussin recipe) as well as other rare varieties gathered in the New Forest.

Le Poussin is a past Times Out of Town Restaurant of the Year and Daily Telegraph Restaurant of the Year.

Photo Á‚© Sam Bailey